Stolac, My Favorite place
Stolac;
Always searching for shocking deals: we came upon a place to stay on AirBnB that was super duper cheap. We were ready to move onward from Mostar and needed our next destination. Cheap and an old house that is certifiably over 500 years old, led us straight to Stolac. Bus leaves from Mostar nearly every hour during the week, less on weekends. See photo for times. It costs BLAH per person.
Now this town is not for everyone but if you are reading this, you may already know we like old, cheap and historic with something the good lord Allah created for us to see nearby. This town had it all. I am always a fan of places that take me back in time, where I can still feel the energy of the past, Stolac, due to war, lives the past on a daily basis. I cannot speak for the locals, but the abandonded once thriving buildings and with a small bit of knowledge as to why is enough to know, they are still recovering form the past.
We are dropped off unceremoniously at the abandonded bus stop and walked two minutes to our new home. We cross a stone bridge that is hovering over the purest fresh water I have ever seen. It is the color of water from the ice age. The house is two story and sits across a narrow street from two cafes. Behind it is the river with ducks and geese (who contribute to this being my favorite place). On the mountain is a large fortress that immediately makes you want to set your suitcases down and go exploring.
The sign on the door says the Konak house is from BLAH year. Hamza, the owner, is absolutely responsive and helpful. We first stayed upstairs without a full kitchen. We never mind this. We eat fruits and vegetables, yogurt, crackers with cream cheese, and granola cereal.
Our first day we walked to Old Town, about a 7 minute walk between the fortress mountain and the river. There is an unusual division here, one side of the street seems to be more Christian and the other side of the street more Muslim. Like many other Balkan cities, the towns have a long ever changing history which leads to present day mixture of a church and mosque near each other. Beautiful sight to me. Christmas decorations, nativity seen encircle the mosque. There is a courtyard with lots of outdoor seating for the one restaurant and three cafes. Han’s Restoran is a great local place to visit and eat outside and enjoy the many gatherings under the clock tower.
There are three main markets all within three minute walk of each other. The best thing in these markets is a drink called Cokta, a Bosnian orignial Coke a cola as well as 30% cream that comes in tubs like yogurt. It is insanely delicious the brand is Maggi. It is yogurt without yogurt sour taste, cream without sugar and is tasty with just about anything. Give it a go and if you are really feeling frisky, buy the pre made waffles, slap some cream between the stacks and add kiwi and banana and the 40 cent small chocolate bars that you can shave onto the top. $15 dessert for $5 and trust me, it is better than all other options for something sweet.
When you take a walk up the hill to the fortress, be aware that there are these black sticky burs that will make love with your clothes. It took us an hour and a half just to get them off of just one sweater. Mind you, we have trouble acting like adults and we go romping through the ruins disregarding intended paths.
Next stop is Maks house, a poet who is from Stolac and his BLAH will show you around the old house and grounds. This is a small spot and takes less than thrity minutes to enjoy. I was inspired, as a writer, by this man’s story. I was equally inspired by his family still being present in this living monument. Maks monument can also be found in the city park.
